Sustainable Fashion 101

5 Fast Fashion Brands To Avoid — And Why To Make The Switch

updated on October 16, 2023 by Mindy Chung

I get the allure of fast fashion.

With rent, groceries, gas, and living getting more and more expensive, it’s a great dopamine hit to score a whole new wardrobe for under $100. (Look cute, feel cute, right?) But it demonstrates an incredible amount of privilege that we can enjoy these prices while ignoring the nasty (a.k.a. sweatshop) elephant in the room.

Most people don’t actively research why these brands are bad—what they’re doing and how that’s actually affecting consumers as a whole. And I feel you, it’s a lot to wade through. So I’ve made it easy-peasy for y’all by summarizing some of the more questionable practices of, and which top fast-fashion brands to avoid, along with a few resources on finding sustainable swaps.

The top fast fashion brands to avoid during your sustainability journey

Shein

I know people love this brand. But y’all… It’s. So. BAD. Shein is notorious for stealing the work of small creators, and is currently involved in a RICO investigation because of these infringements. They’ve also been accused of unethical labor practices which makes sense, as that’s often what allows fast fashion brands to offer consumers dirt-cheap prices.

For some, brands like Shein may seem like the only affordable way to get new clothes. But there are clothing-swap and free exchange FB groups full of other women who are in the same predicament that probably have the same style as you. And if that doesn’t pan out, thrifting is always an option for those with the patience.

Urban Outfitters

Besides having a string of ill-advised fashion choices (i.e. the infamous “Kent State” sweater), URBN (who owns Anthropologie and Free People) has had a long and reoccurring history of labor exploitation. They’ve been caught using subcontractors who employed children, sweatshops that severely underpaid workers in Bangladesh, and even been accused of violating labor laws in Pennsylvania. Plus, over the years, they have also come under fire for stealing indie designers’ work. But if you love the UO vibe, and Anthro to,fear not—we have guides to ethical alternatives for them both here and here.

Boohoo

This is for my Gen Z girlies. I know that Boohoo has all the cute, trendy, and affordable pieces for a hot girl closet, but their sustainability pledge (if you can call it that) is basically nonexistent. While they do have a tab on their website addressing sustainability, it has very vague promises, no solid numbers or statistics, and honestly kind of feels like it was written by a high schooler.

It also feels a little gas-lighty that they talk more about how you, the consumer, can be more sustainable, while barely addressing how they themselves are working towards the same goal. Lastly, like everyone else mentioned here, they’ve come under fire for unfair labor practices.

Zara

Out of all these brands, Zara is arguably one of the more sustainable companies. They use recycled packaging and have made lofty goals like phasing out single use plastics in 2023, but there’s still a lack of transparency when it comes to their supply chain and working conditions for their manufacturers. Any and all documentation their parent company, Inditex, has on sustainability focuses more or their projected goals without offering any real numbers to show they’re actually reaching them. Can you say greenwashing?

I’d say anyone who enjoys Zara would also love Wolf & Badger. This global community of independent brands is B-Corp certified, and offers sustainably and ethically sourced clothing that leans more towards a refined, luxurious palate. While each brand has its own values when it comes to sustainability—see what we mean here—you won’t find any major fast fashion brands to avoid on their vendor list.

H&M

I feel like we’ve all been led to believe H&M is an okay-ish company because they have a clothing recycling program and talk about sustainability. But it’s giving major green-washing energy; they came under fire in 2018 for allegedly burning unsold clothing instead of recycling them.

All in all, at the end of the day, it may feel inconsequential for one person choose a few fast fashion brands to avoid. But in reality, it’s the collective efforts of each individual that’s slowly shifting the market away from textile waste. We are the ones that have the influence to force companies to become more sustainable. And it’s through small changes like shopping local or recycling our wardrobes that we really start to make a difference in what’s “desirable” tomorrow.

Looking for ethical alternatives to the brands featured above? Comb through a few of these sustainable fashion guides for ideas:

What is Lotus Silk? Spotlight on a Rare Natural Silk

updated on February 3, 2023 by Angela Hamilton

Have you heard of lotus silk? I’ll admit I hadn’t until I chatted with Angelica of Terrai, a new sustainable lifestyle goods company who works with South-East Asian artisans to transform natural materials into coveted products like the silk scrunchies below. Turns out, it’s a pretty incredible vegan silk made from the stems of lotus flowers, which are used throughout Cambodia where their product is made. They take the discarded stems of those flowers and turn them into beautiful goods in a pretty spectacular process.

Below, Terrai shows us how it’s done.

what is lotus silk?

The clip below from Business Insider shows us how this fiber is made, and what makes it so expensive. In traditional silk, insects are doing most of the work. But with lotus silk, each strand must be extracted from the plant by hand. It is truly a delicate process.

Lotus silk is a rare fabric considered to be the most sustainable fabric in the world as its production requires no electricity, petrol or chemicals to produce. Natural textiles are a lost practice within Cambodia, and Terrai is proud to bring them at the forefront thanks to this collection. The full range of Terrai scrunchies use fabrics from lotus, banana microfiber and kapok blends, and are handcrafted, no-dye and 100% biodegradable.

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We take the discarded stems and extract the thin fibers from them, which are then rolled together to form the thread. The thread then needs to be processed while they are still wet otherwise they will break, it’s an incredibly delicate process! Once dry, the threads are hand-spooled and put into the loom for weaving. The preparation of a loom takes approximately one week. When the room is ready, the threads are processed into fabric. Then we turn them into our beautiful vegan silk scrunchies!

Thanks to Angelica + the Terrai team for sharing the magic of lotus silk!

Terrai was created as a love letter to Asia, where co-founders, Angelica Almås and Alexander Weiss grew up. The inaugural collection, The Khmer Collection, is a line of minimal homeware sourced from the Kingdom of Cambodia. The co-founders collaborated together with unique Khmer artisans to create a contemporary yet intentional collection of ceramics, textile and woodware. The aesthetic fuses modern design with traditional techniques, offering a collection of laidback yet refined pieces.

Learn about Terrai + more sustainable brands in our directory.

Your Guide To Vegan Leather… That’s Actually Sustainable

updated on September 9, 2023 by Mindy Chung

Why is it that when a tall, dark, and handsome stranger is introduced in a romance novel they’re always described as smelling like leather? Sure, society’s taught us to associate the animal-byproduct with luxury and masculinity, but even if you know it’s not all that, you might wonder if leather alternatives are actually sustainable.

Truth is that innovators in the industry have been working hard to come up with a handful of alternative sources for leather, and they’re a lot better than they used to be! While PVC and PU leather used to be popular choices, sustainability demands have driven interest and research into vegan leather made from plants and vegetative life forms, not plastic. So here’s a fascinating list of all the crazy, delightful, and beautiful ways industry disruptors have been changing the leather game:

Sustainable leather alternatives that aren’t made made from plastic

Piñatex Pineapple Leather Alternatives

Created and distributed by Ananas Anam, Piñatex is the brainchild of Dr. Carmen Hijosa.

This vegan leather solves a huge problem with agricultural waste in the Philippines; it takes the leaves left over from pineapple harvesting and repurposes them into a leather-like material that can be used in fashion, accessories, and upholstery. According to their website, Ananas Anam use GOTS certified pigments to color their materials (yay!) but also uses a PU transfer coating to create one of their offshoot materials, Piñatex Performance (boo).

This sustainable leather alternative has been used by big names like Hugo Boss, H&M and Hilton, and the company that produces Piñatex, Ananas Anam, is actually a Certified B Corporation now!

Banbū Bamboo

Produced by Von Holzhausen for their own bags and shoes, Banbū can also be bought by other companies looking to branch into a sustainable leather goods centered business.

Bamboo is one of the most regenerative plants on Earth; that’s why we keep seeing more and more goods made from it. According to Von Holzhausen, Banbū is biodegradable, recyclable, and uses 33% less carbon than normal leather.

Mylo Fungi Leather

Made from mycelium (a.k.a. mushrooms) Mylo was engineered by Bolt Threads, and is described as “Magical thinking meets radical intention.”

Mylo is described as bio-based, and verified vegan during its growth process. The mycelium used to make Mylo grows in just two weeks in a base of sawdust and organic materials. All by-products of the process are composted, and Mylo is made into leather with what Bolt Threads refers to as “Green Chemistry principles.”

Because Mylo is so new, the company expects to have real values and numbers on its environmental impact in 2022, but lacks proof of its sustainability just yet. Regardless, the fungi-based leather alterative has already been used by companies like Adidas, Lululemon, and Stella McCartney in a range of consumer goods. It’s definitely one to watch!

SCOBY Kombucha Leather

Okay, I’m going to be honest. I discovered Scoby leather on Tiktok. It was being made and used by a small creator who had a whole process for making accessories for personal use.

As far as I can tell this is more of a small-time, underground, leather alternative; while you can buy Scoby goods online, they’re all from small business owners. That’s probably because there’s some kinks in its viability—Scoby leather is not waterproof so it needs a sealing process which can bring down its sustainability and durability.

Research is on track to explore if this vegan leather can be mass-produced, but for now if you want a choker made from Scoby you’ll have to buy from a small business (oh no 😉).

Desserto® Cactus Leather

One of the materials I’ve seen blow up the most in recent times, Desserto®’s cactus leather has been making waves in the leather goods industry.

Created by Mexican entrepreneurs, Adrián López Velarde and Marte Cázarez, Desserto® is made from nopal (a cactus) and first showcased in 2019 in Milan. The pair chose cactus because of its role as a natural carbon sink and soil regenerator. Desserto® is USDA Organic certified and 50% of their processed harvest is repurposed into feed stock to repurpose and reduce their by-products.

Desserto® is currently only used by larger companies like Fossil and Mercedez-Benz because of its minimum order requirements, but hopefully that changes as cactus leather becomes more accessible for everyday consumers.

Have you heard of these vegan leather alternatives? Let us know any other innovations you’d add to this list.

5 Times Shein has Copied Designs from Independent Fashion Brands

updated on May 24, 2023 by Angela Hamilton

It’s wild to think of Shein’s journey toward global fast fashion empire over the years. Last year, it was the #1 shopping app in the US (ugh). I was in college during the golden age of lifestyle blogs, ie over ten years ago, and the brand was one of the first I remember sending products to influencers (AKA fashion bloggers, not necessarily those on Instagram) for placement in their style posts. Even before I really educated myself on fast fashion’s impact, I felt pretty icky about it. It didn’t make a lot of sense to me that something could be the same price new as the clothing in the thrift stores I frequented. Anyway, safe to say I was not their target blogger!

If you’re privy to the dangers of fast fashion, or simply a supporter of indie labels, you’ve probably heard one of the many instances of Shein stealing designs from such brands. Shein is far from the only clothing giant to come under fire, but they are particularly noteworthy because of their dirt-cheap prices (often ripping off $100+ pieces and selling them for under $10), not to mention their habit of blatantly copying not just the designs, but but styling & creative production that independent labels put into their work.

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In 2021 crochet artist and handmade clothing designer Bailey Prado called our Shein for stealing and recreating at least 20 different designs. What’s even more alarming (and has happened in many of the cases below too) is how Shein ripped their product styling, creative direction, and entire visual feel of the line!

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Similarly, Shein copied the Baiia sustainable swimwear, an Australian label, and reproduced a very obviously inferior version of it for their customers. I’ve been wanting to try Baiia for so long because their swimwear is so versatile—it’s reversible, interchangeable, and built for all bodies. It’s clear that Baiia along with all of the designers in this post are so intentional about their work, so seeing it ripped off is shocking and appalling.

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Crochet and knit slow fashion brand Elexiay has also spotted their designs at Shein. If you have ever knitted or crocheted by hand, you know just how long it takes to takes and just how much intentionality and talent goes into getting it exactly right. Further, Elexiay is a brand that highlights Nigeria’s rich history of sustainable craftsmanship. Not only is Shein stealing designs, but reducing art and history to a throwaway impulse buy.

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Another upsetting example is Shein’s copy of size inclusive ethical fashion brand Loud Bodies. They sold it for $20, which doesn’t even come close to the cost of labor to make such a dress, let alone the supplies and other costs. Inclusive brands like Loud Bodies work hard to offer clothing that supports bodies of all sizes, with fast fashion giants coming in and convincing the consumer that they’re just as thoughtful with lines like SheinCurve.

Im SO over these major brands stealing from black designers. @SHEIN_official STOLE my @sincerelyriaxo designs to a T. They couldn’t even change ONE thing and it’s now one of their highest selling items. They even stole the brands aesthetic. Like Come on pic.twitter.com/ose8DiM9hK

— Mariama Diallo ✨ (@MariamaDiallo__) June 11, 2021

Sincerely Ria is a brand inspired by Guinea’s Fulani culture, and owner Mariama Diallo shared that Shein took one of their designs and copied it as well as the visual aesthetic behind the brand as well.

Digging deeper into some of these examples, you’ll see that Shein will sometimes address the designer directly, apologize for the “accident” and remove whichever product has been called out the most. Because that’s how fast fashion works. If they’re called out for this, all they have to do is recreate another design, and so on.

Since the brands above are focused on high quality, small production and generally sustainable/ethical practices (I haven’t heavily researched every practice or fabric offered of course), they all come with much higher price tags than the Shein copies. That said, I know that not everyone turns to fast fashion for the purpose of overflowing closets—there is a need for affordable clothing that many small brands cannot currently offer. I try to use these tricks for building a sustainable fashion budget and remember that quality outlasts quantity every time.

A Beginner’s Guide To Shopping More Sustainably

updated on May 24, 2023 by Mindy Chung

I know how alluring sites like SheIn and BooHoo can be, especially when you see influencers doing huge clothing hauls with each item priced at a fraction of what they would be in most stores. But while you may save a few bucks up front, these companies cost you more in the long run with their cheap fabrics and shoddy craftsmanship. They also cost the environment via the carbon footprint of such unsustainable fast fashion practices.

While those are the most obvious offenders, with greenwashing on the rise, it can be hard to distinguish what’s actually an eco-friendly purchase from one that’s framed that way to profit a company. That’s why I’ve compiled this list of parameters to look out for when trying to shop more sustainably!

photo by Trình Minh Thư

Get familiar with fabrics

We’re past our polyester days, babes. Cheaper materials like polyester and rayon are cost effective for companies, but non-renewable, and involve the usage of countless harmful chemicals like phthalates which can be absorbed through skin contact (yikes).

Instead, look for eco-friendly fibers like certified organic cotton, TENCELL lyocell, or recycled/ repurposed materials (think deadstock fabric or vintage items). These materials use less water to produce, and work towards creating a circular lifespan for your clothes instead of condemning them to a landfill for all eternity.

Shop small

One of the reasons environmentally detrimental fashion slips through the cracks is because of how obscure the supply chain is. Companies count on you not digging deep into their manufacturing process, and inquiring about their practices, to downplay how large their carbon footprint really is.

Now, not all big companies are bad; obviously some have founded their brand on sustainability and transparency. But if you want to reduce your own footprint, consider shopping small. When you shop small, chances are the creator not only sources locally, but they view their process and suppliers as a point of pride. They’re also more open to answering questions about their sustainability status and can be more easily swayed by consumer demand for eco-friendly practices.

Look for transparency

The tricky thing about greenwashing is that a company will use all the bells and whistles and trigger words to make you *think* you’re making a sustainable purchase. But a truly sustainable company will be upfront about their process; look for sustainability reports, statistics, and information on their factories and worker conditions.

This does involve some discernment on your part, but trust your gut! If a company seems too good to be true, it probably is.

Keep an eye out for certifications

When you do shop at larger retailers, keep an eye out for their involvement in big sustainability initiatives. If Linda on Instagram is hand-making your top, with clear documentation of the process, it’s probably safe to say she’s not exploiting sweatshop workers or using toxic chemicals.

But for larger corporations, looking for certifications like Fair Trade Certified or Oeko-Tex compliant adds a layer of assurance to their proclaimed eco-friendly practices and sustainability. Their marketing language may be difficult to discern the truth from, but these certifications at the very least express that a company is willing to jump through a few hoops to ensure a quality product.

Recycle!

This is kind of a three-tiered system:

First, choose a recycled wardrobe by shopping at secondhand stores or vintage shops. Giving used goods a new home is a great way to keep them out of landfills, and since fashion trends always inevitably repeat themselves (hi Y2K) it can also be great for scoring some unique finds.
When you’re done with a piece, some sustainable companies will actually take your well-loved articles of clothing and recycle them for use in their own manufacturing. Companies like Knickey will even go as far as rewarding you with store credit or free clothes for your worn out goods (in Knickey’s case, a pair of free organic cotton undies). And of course, there’s plenty of local areas who would appreciate a secondhand donation.
For clothes that are super worn (can’t be used again), you can locate the nearest textile recycling center near you. Most counties have a list of how to dispose of “hard to recycle” items like textiles, plastic bags, batteries and lightbulbs, etc. on their websites. It just takes a few minutes to Google and diverts serious amounts of waste from the landfill!

Lastly, be kind

A key takeaway I’d like to share from all of this is to be kind to yourself. Developing a more sustainable lifestyle takes time and practice. You won’t get it right every time, but as long as you’re making an effort, there’s no shame in trying to be better.

How will you shop more sustainably this year? Follow us on Instagram for more tips!

South Elevation: Why I Started My Own Sustainable Fashion Brand

updated on May 30, 2023 by Angela Hamilton

The following piece is a guest post by Judith Henriquez, founder of forthcoming sustainable fashion brand South Elevation—launching this fall. The brand specializes in contemporary plus-size fashion for women while being kind to the environment. Read on to hear Judith’s entrepreneurial journey to launch a sustainable fashion brand. xx Angela

Four years ago, if someone had told me that I’d be starting my own fashion brand I would’ve laughed in disbelief. I always dreamed of having my own business but never in a million years did I think it would be fashion related. My background is in a completely different field and given my socioeconomic status starting any type of business at that time was a far-fetched dream. That is, until I started listening to a podcast called The Passionate Few. Interview after interview I kept hearing the same thing “find a need and fill it”. One day I ended up signing for an online webinar on how to start a fashion brand and now we are here.

#1 Lack of Plus Size Clothing Options

The first reason or need I identified in my life was lack of clothing options. You’re probably thinking that all women have a closet full of clothes and nothing to wear, but this isn’t the case for everyone. The options for plus size women are few and non-existent in many retail stores. It’s almost as if we don’t have careers to dress up for or special moments in life that we want to look nice for. Fashion is not only a way to express oneself, it’s also a necessity.

#2 Need For More Sustainable Fashion Brands

Once I started learning about the process that goes into making a garment, sustainability came into the equation. Not only was the final product important but also the process; the more I learned about the making of a garment the more obvious it became that sustainability was a must. Now, let’s not forget that I am also a consumer, so when shopping for myself the lack of sustainably made garments was very apparent. I’d like to remind everyone that just like any other consumer plus size women care about the environment too. We want options, we want colors, and we also want to know that the planet and its people were treated with dignity and respect throughout the process.

#3 Pursue a Lifelong Dream

The third reason why I decided to start my own sustainable fashion brand was to pursue a childhood dream. As mentioned previously, I always dreamed of having my own business. As an immigrant, it’s almost an obligation that we put on ourselves to be successful in whatever we pursue. Not only for ourselves but for our families, we feel pressure to make our parents’ sacrifice worth it.

#4 Empower & Educate Women

Lastly, another important reason why this journey began was to empower women. I was born in a town where a woman’s future was and still is for many, getting married and having kids. Now, there’s nothing wrong with this, but many would like to pursue other paths and that means facing financial obstacles and experiencing a lack of opportunities. My long-term goal is to empower women by providing access to education and entrepreneurship. At the moment, we try to empower women by sharing encouraging content on our social platforms. We also set aside a part of our budget to donate to a nonprofit that aims to end human trafficking. Human tracking victims are predominantly women and girls, so this is our small way of contributing.

It’s amazing what can happen in four years but looking back at it, it makes perfect sense. As someone once said, “necessity is the mother of invention”: we either settle or take action. If you’re a small business owner I want to encourage you to look beyond the product. See how you can contribute to a better tomorrow because a small business CAN have a big impact.

Thanks to Judith of South Elevation for sharing! Follow along at @south_elevation for more on the brand and their upcoming launch.